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Dolce & Gabbana's Dilijeba and Kim Dachuan on the 2018 Spring Summer show

On September 24, Diligeba appeared on the stage of Dolce & Gabbana's 2018 Spring/Summer show. The post-90s female actress with 32.28 million Weibo fans came to the catwalk this time, not to attend the show. , And she and discharged out of the field is a male model of gold Dachuan. As for whether or not Di Lizepa had achieved a good bottom, opinions on Weibo were divided. Some fashion commentators said that she had empty eyes, but fans were not surprised to buy very much and praised her as “full of gas”.

Controversy, criticism, and cries from fans fill Dolce & Gabbana's past year, but the numbers are more persuasive than words.

According to Italian media PambiancoNews, in the fiscal year ending March 31, 2017, Dolce & Gabbana Group's consolidated sales rose by 9.6% year-on-year to 1.296 billion euros, compared to 1.179 billion euros in the same period of last year. Compared with the results of previous years, the most surprising thing in the latest financial report data is that its net profit soared 346% to 80 million euros, nearly four times that of the same period.

During the period, Dolce & Gabbana's retail sales rose 7.1% year-on-year to 796 million euros, wholesale sales rose 8.7% year-on-year to 438 million euros, and third-party licensing channel sales decreased 9.2% year-on-year to 61.2 million euros.

Founded in 1980 by designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, Dolce & Gabbana released its first women's collection in 1985. The birthplace of the brand is an island in southern Italy - Sicily. You may have known this land through the movie "Sicilian Legend" or "The Godfather". Passionateness is synonymous here, which makes Dolce & Gabbana's brand style always The pen of fashion circles.

Even in the years when minimalism and coldness prevailed, Dolce & Gabbana still insisted on intricate floral patterns and dazzling colors. Even the simplest white T-shirts can be designed to be elegant and luxurious.

Dolce & Gabbana Spring Summer 2017 Collection

Dolce & Gabbana Spring Summer 2017 Collection

At the beginning of the market, the design responses of the two designers were mediocre. They really made their reputation as the fourth series inspired by the 1940s Italian cinema. After that, Dolce & Gabbana began a global expansion in Madonna. After being enabled as a concert costume designer, this Italian fashion house has become an international luxury brand.

However, after 2010, Dolce & Gabbana, the most profitable Italian luxury brand, began to decline. In 2012, Dolce & Gabbana closed down the D&G brand, which is the largest profitable sideline brand, in order to simplify the product line, resulting in a slowdown in growth. This move has been controversial to this day.

Last year there was also industry news that Dolce & Gabbana will lay off 1,000 people, not only in garment factories, but also in Milan headquarters. The news pointed out that due to the soaring of fixed costs, Dolce & Gabbana is streamlining the structure in order to transform the company from a family business to a listed company - throughout the year, the addition of Patrizio di Marco, the former CEO of Gucci, will also speed up its listing process.

The designers of Domenico Dolece and Stefano Gabbana have strong personality. When the brand performance was frustrated, they adopted the more extreme business strategy of the traditional luxury brand industry. Because of the negative news again and again, the brand was placed in the public opinion center.

In April of this year, Dolce & Gabbana filmed a series of advertisements titled "DG Love China", which triggered fierce controversy in Chinese social media. The young people dressed in Chinese costumes in the commercials contrasted sharply with those who captured them. Internet users began to criticize the brand for maliciously vilifying the image of the Chinese people. They doubted whether the brand was proclaiming that “young, wealth, and appearance are sources of superiority”. The position.

Dolce & Gabbana issued a tag on the official Sina Weibo account as "#DG Love China #" series.

Dolce & Gabbana issued a tag on the official Sina Weibo account as "#DG Love China #" series.

Dolce & Gabbana issued a tag on the official Sina Weibo account as "#DG Love China #" series.

The whole fashion industry has really questioned the root cause of Dolce & Gabbana. It is the online red strategy launched in the last two years. It invites global stars and net red to take the lead instead of supermodels. It began to abandon the men's collection in the fall and winter of 2017. With professional models, the network of celebrities or celebrity descendants who have huge fans and considerable traffic around the world are attracted.

The release of the Dolce & Gabbana 2018 men's collection series in spring and summer in June of this year was triggered by the invitation of the Chinese teen idol and TF Boys member Wang Junkai to start the catwalk. This has once again aroused domestic attention. After Wang Junkai has more than 20 million followers, After taking over the brand's official Weibo, the 4 microblogs issued received a total of more than 50,000 retransmissions. Afterwards, Wang Junkai, a brand forwarder, received 252 million retransmissions. Prior to this, Dolce & Gabbana also invited Chinese fashion bloggers gogoboi, Fil Bai, Chen Xuedong, and Sheng Yilun to go on a catwalk in Milan.

Wang Junkai shows Dolce & Gabbana 2018 men's wear series

The purpose of these brand actions is obvious. They hope to use the traffic of stars and nets to drive sales of products around the world. The goal is not a mistake in the millennial generation. After all, this is one of the things that more and more luxury brands are doing to avoid being abandoned by the market. However, the desperate action of Dolc & Gabbana to bet on Baohong is considered too extreme by industry insiders. Some analysis pointed out: "This is a kind of flaw in the professional week of Fashion Week. When blindly pursuing the brand's exposure in social networks, it loses the bottom line that a luxury brand should have."

However, Stefano Gabbana disagreed with this and he once called back directly: "The media and commentators now don't know about the Millennials and are left behind."

But chasing traffic is not the core of the problem. In recent years, the brand has been more conservative in its products. Although the latest season of the 2018 Spring/Summer series includes playing cards and Oriental elements in the printing, the overall image maintains extreme stability. There are not many new ideas.

The domestic fashion commentator Tang Shuang thinks, “It is not youth that celebrates here but privilege, wealth, and stratum.” She also believes that the star chosen by the brand cannot represent the millennial generation, and each generation has idols at all levels. Excessive millennial strategies are part of Dolce & Gabbana's dangerous values.

“Eggs cannot be placed in the same basket.” It is a common perception among businessmen that while the Millennials’ money is good to earn, the group’s high degree of uncertainty and fickle character should make the brand vigilant. Some analysts pointed out that for the luxury brands, youthfulness is always an abstract concept. In the face of the millennial generation that is full of changes, how to cater to and to what extent caters to the preferences of young consumers should be the focus of brand control. Instead of seeing the market.

High-yields always coexist with high risks. The surge in profits of Dolce & Gabbana also means that the subsequent growth space is highly compressed. To maintain this kind of profit growth, I’m afraid that the over-pressed nets are not necessarily the most A good way out.